Why Your TIG Tungsten Keeps Breaking Without Touching

You're running a bead and your tungsten electrode snaps clean, even though it never touched the workpiece or filler rod. TIG tungsten breaks without touching more often than most welders expect, and the root cause usually isn't obvious. It's almost always a setup problem hiding in plain sight, not a flaw in your technique.

Per AWS A5.12, tungsten electrodes are rated for specific current ranges based on diameter alone. A 3/32-inch electrode handles roughly 80 to 160 amps on DCEN polarity. Push it past 200 without proper gas lens coverage and you're asking for a fracture.

Let's walk through the diagnostic sequence that actually fixes this.

Why Your TIG Tungsten Keeps Breaking Without Touching

The Problem: Tungsten Fractures Before It Even Touches the Work

If you've spent any time welding with TIG, you know tungsten electrodes aren't disposable the way MIG contact tips are. They're meant to last through multiple sessions. So when one snaps mid-arc without ever touching the workpiece, something in your setup is working against you.

TIG welding, formally called Gas Tungsten Arc Welding, uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to create the arc. The electrode itself never melts into the puddle. That's the whole point.

But non-consumable doesn't mean indestructible.

The quality difference between TIG and MIG processes comes down to precision and control. But that precision depends on every variable being correct. One mismatch between your electrode, your settings, and your torch setup, and the tungsten pays for it.

The break almost always tells a story. A fracture at the collet grip points to mechanical stress: wobble, misalignment, or a worn collet body. A fracture at the tip signals thermal shock or contamination-driven heat concentration.

The tricky part is that the electrode might look clean. No visible contact marks. No obvious discoloration at first glance.

But a micro-crack forms from repeated thermal cycles, and the next arc strike snaps it in half.

Where and how the break happens is your first diagnostic clue. It tells you whether to focus on torch setup, electrode selection, or machine settings. That's what the next steps cover.

Over a typical welding session, you might go through three to five electrodes if your setup isn't dialed in. At roughly a dollar per electrode for quality lanthanated or ceriated tungsten, that adds up. Over a month of regular welding, poor electrode management can cost you fifty dollars or more in wasted materials alone.

The diagnostic path diverges from here based on three variables: contamination, polarity mismatch, and amperage overload. Most breakages trace back to one of these three. Sometimes it's a combination.

The following steps walk through each in order, starting with the most common cause.

Quick Answer: The Most Likely Culprit in Your Setup

TIG tungsten breaks without touching most often due to contamination. The second cause is a mismatched electrode type and polarity setting. The third is running too many amps for the electrode diameter.

As of 2026, these three remain the top causes of unexplained tungsten fractures. Check them first and you'll solve the problem before reaching for a new electrode.

Step 1: Rule Out Contamination First

Contamination is the number one reason TIG electrodes break without contact. Even when you think you've been careful, it sneaks in from places you don't expect.

Did Filler Rod or Workpiece Contact the Electrode?

The most common source of contamination is physical contact between the electrode and filler rod or workpiece. You're feeding rod with one hand and holding the torch with the other. In tight joints or awkward angles, it's easy to brush the rod against hot tungsten.

Even a brief touch deposits foreign metal on the electrode surface.

Once that happens, the deposit heats faster than the surrounding tungsten. It creates a localized hot spot. The uneven thermal stress initiates a crack, and the electrode snaps on the next thermal cycle.

Workpiece contact causes the same failure. This happens most often on thin material where heat builds fast and the workpiece shifts under thermal expansion.

Is Something Introducing Oil, Moisture, or Dirt?

Contamination doesn't always come from metal-on-metal contact. Skin oils from handling electrodes with bare hands transfer easily. Moisture from humid shop air settles on tungsten left exposed overnight.

Cutting fluid or grinding residue on the workpiece vaporizes near the arc and contaminates the electrode through the gas stream.

Each of these contaminants lowers the tungsten's effective melting point at localized spots. The electrode develops a weak point, cracks under normal thermal stress, and breaks.

How to Confirm Contamination Caused the Break

After an electrode breaks, examine the fracture surface under good light. A clean break on uncontaminated tungsten looks bright and crystalline. A contaminated break shows dark discoloration, pitting, or a melted texture at the fracture point.

If discoloration appears along the shaft above the tip, moisture or shielding gas issues are likely. If contamination is concentrated at the tip, contact with filler rod or workpiece is the more probable cause.

What to Check

• Wipe every electrode with acetone before loading it into the torch
• Store tungsten in a sealed container, not loose in a toolbox drawer
• Clean the workpiece thoroughly, especially around the weld joint
• Avoid touching the ground portion of the electrode after sharpening
• Inspect your argon supply line for moisture or leaks
• Use welding-grade argon at 99.95% purity or higher

A clean tungsten on DCEN should stay relatively bright and silver throughout its life. If it's turning gray or black after just a few beads, contamination is almost certainly the culprit.

Your torch components matter here too. A cracked gas nozzle or clogged collet body won't deliver clean shielding gas to the arc zone. That accelerates contamination even when your technique is solid.

Replace worn parts before blaming the electrode.

Step 2: Check Your Tungsten Type Against Your Polarity

This is where a lot of welders, especially those new to the GTAW process, make a costly mistake. Not all tungsten electrodes work on all polarities. Using the wrong combination creates immediate problems, including electrode fracture.

Why Pure Tungsten Fails on DCEN

Pure tungsten (green-band) is designed for AC welding, primarily on aluminum. On DCEN, pure tungsten doesn't handle the concentrated heat at the tip. It balls unpredictably, the arc destabilizes, and the electrode fractures from thermal shock.

If you're running DCEN for steel or stainless and you've got a green-band electrode loaded, that's almost certainly your problem.

Ceriated and Lanthanated Electrodes on AC

Ceriated (orange-band) and lanthanated (blue or gold-band) electrodes perform best on DC. They start arcs easily at lower amperage and handle DCEN heat well. On AC, though, they don't ball the way pure tungsten does.

The electrode tip erodes unevenly, creating stress concentrations that lead to cracking.

That said, lanthanated electrodes are sometimes used on AC by experienced operators. It demands tighter control over balance and frequency settings, though.

Why the Mismatch Causes Breakage

When the wrong electrode meets the wrong polarity, heat concentrates unevenly. On DCEN with pure tungsten, the tip gets excessively hot because pure tungsten has a lower threshold for sustained DC current. The thermal gradient between the hot tip and the cooler shaft creates internal stress.

After a few arc cycles, that stress finds the weakest point and cracks the electrode.

With ceriated or lanthanated on AC, the electrode can't form a proper ball at the tip. Instead, it develops an irregular erosion pattern. Sharp edges and thin spots become stress risers.

The next arc start turns those stress risers into fracture lines.

What to Load for Your Application

The best technique for welding aluminum still depends on pairing the right tungsten with AC polarity. Using ceriated or lanthanated on aluminum work isn't always wrong, but it requires tighter setup management.

Quick Diagnostic Check

Ask yourself three questions:

• What electrode color band is loaded in my torch?
• What polarity is my machine set to right now?
• Am I welding aluminum, or steel and stainless?

If the answers don't match the table above, swap the electrode first. It costs almost nothing and eliminates the fastest variable. Electrode composition directly affects thermal performance under different polarities, per AWS A5.12 specifications.

Step 3: Match Your Amperage to Your Electrode Diameter

Even with the right tungsten type and polarity, too much amperage will destroy an electrode fast. The heat has nowhere to go except up the electrode shaft. Exceed the rated capacity and the tungsten overheats, develops thermal cracks, and snaps.

The Amperage Limits You Should Know

Tungsten diameter directly determines how much current it can handle safely. Here's a practical reference for DCEN operation with standard shielding:

These are approximate upper limits. Actual ratings depend on gas coverage, electrode length, and how well your torch dissipates heat. A gas lens setup gives you more headroom than a standard collet body at the same amperage.

Stickout Length Compounds the Problem

Stickout is the distance the electrode extends beyond the gas nozzle. On a standard collet body, keep it to 1/8 or 3/16 inch maximum. Go longer and the exposed electrode can't dissipate heat properly.

Gas coverage drops off too, which leads to oxidation and further weakening.

With a gas lens collet body, you can extend stickout to 1/2 inch or even 3/4 inch. The gas lens creates a more uniform shielding envelope around the electrode. That allows longer stickout without sacrificing coverage.

If you're running a standard collet body with 1/2 inch of stickout at 150 amps, the electrode is under serious thermal stress. Reduce the stickout or switch to a gas lens. The difference in electrode survival is dramatic.

How to Diagnose Amperage Problems

If the electrode consistently breaks within the first few seconds of arc initiation, your starting amperage may be too high. Many TIG machines have a separate start amperage setting. If that's cranked up, the initial surge is enough to crack a small-diameter electrode.

Check your machine's amperage settings across all four phases:

• Start current (initial arc strike)
• Welding current (main bead)
• Crater fill current (end of bead)
• Pulse peak current (if using pulse TIG)

Each phase should fall within the rated range for your electrode diameter. If start current alone pushes 150 amps on a 3/32 electrode, that's your problem.

The Fix

Drop the amperage to match your electrode diameter, or step up to a larger electrode that can handle the current. For most jobs, the second option works better because it also improves arc stability and shielding gas coverage.

Here's a useful indicator: if your electrode glows bright red within the first five seconds of arc initiation, you're running too hot for its size. Back off 10 to 15 percent and see if the problem clears.

For sheet metal applications, the challenge is that low amperage is needed for penetration control, but you also need a small electrode for access. A 1/16-inch electrode at 40 to 60 amps is usually stable. Push it above 80 and you're in the danger zone.

Balance electrode size against amperage carefully on thin stock.

One more thing on amperage. Pulse TIG settings can mask the problem. Your average current might read within range on the machine display, but the peak pulse is what heats the electrode.

Check the peak value separately. If peak pulse hits 180 amps on a 3/32 electrode, the average reading doesn't matter. The tungsten sees the peak.

Step 4: Inspect Your Stickout Length

Stickout is one of the most overlooked variables in TIG welding, and it directly affects whether your electrode survives the session. Stickout is the length of tungsten that extends beyond the gas nozzle. Too much, and the electrode loses both structural support and shielding gas coverage.

How Stickout Causes Breakage

When the electrode sticks out too far, it vibrates. The arc creates electromagnetic forces that push and pull on the exposed tungsten. At long stickout, that vibration becomes significant.

Over time, the repeated flexing fatigues the metal, especially at the collet grip point where stress concentrates.

Gas coverage also deteriorates with excessive stickout. The gas flow pattern extends outward from the cup in a cone shape. Beyond a certain distance, turbulence pulls ambient air into the shielding envelope.

The tungsten oxidizes, weakens, and eventually cracks.

Standard Collet Body vs. Gas Lens

A standard collet body delivers gas through small holes around the electrode. Coverage drops off fast beyond 3/16 inch of stickout. Keep your extension tight with this setup.

A gas lens uses a mesh screen to create a broader, more uniform gas flow. It maintains effective shielding out to 1/2 inch or more of stickout. The difference is substantial.

In side-by-side comparisons, gas lens setups consistently produce cleaner shielding at longer stickout distances.

What to Check

• Measure the actual stickout with a ruler, not by eye
• Standard collet body: maximum 3/16 inch
• Gas lens: up to 1/2 inch on most applications
• If you need more reach, use a longer tungsten and trim it rather than extending stickout further
• Tighten the collet just enough to hold the electrode. Over-tightening stresses the tungsten and can create a crush point where fractures begin

If your electrode breaks right at the collet, stickout or collet pressure is likely the cause. Back off the tightening torque and reduce stickout by 1/8 inch. The next electrode should survive longer.

Step 5: Examine the Torch Components

Your torch is a system. Every component affects electrode life. Worn, damaged, or mismatched parts create conditions that break tungsten even when your technique and settings are correct.

Collet

The collet is the small split sleeve that grips the electrode inside the torch. It must match the electrode diameter exactly. A 3/32 collet holding a 1/8 electrode won't grip properly.

The electrode wobbles inside the collet, creating arc instability and mechanical stress.

Over time, collets wear. The split closes or the gripping surface develops grooves. A worn collet lets the electrode shift during welding.

That shifting causes momentary contact with the workpiece or filler rod that you might not even notice, but the electrode notices.

Collet Body

The collet body threads into the torch head and holds the collet in place. It also directs shielding gas flow around the electrode. Carbon buildup, spatter, or damage to the gas passages disrupts flow patterns.

Uneven gas coverage leads to oxidation on one side of the electrode and creates thermal imbalance.

Inspect the gas passages with a flashlight. If you see discoloration, spatter, or restriction, clean or replace the collet body.

Gas Nozzle (Ceramic Cup)

Cracks in the ceramic cup are common after repeated heat cycles. A cracked cup leaks gas. Leaking gas means insufficient shielding.

Insufficient shielding means oxidation. Oxidation means weak tungsten. Weak tungsten means fractures.

Check the cup before every session. Hold it up to a light source. Hairline cracks won't be visible to the naked eye in most cases, but if the cup has visible damage or discoloration, replace it.

Ceramic cups cost almost nothing and they prevent expensive electrode waste.

Cup size also matters. A cup that's too small for your amperage can't deliver enough gas flow. Match cup size to your application:

Back Cap

The back cap seals the rear of the torch body and applies pressure to the collet. A loose back cap means loose collet, which means loose electrode. Check that it's snug.

Not over-tightened, just firm.

On welding torch maintenance, the back cap often gets overlooked. A worn O-ring on the back cap can also introduce air leaks that compromise shielding gas purity.

Step 6: Verify Your Gas Flow and Coverage

Shielding gas protects the electrode from atmospheric contamination. Without adequate coverage, tungsten oxidizes at arc temperatures. Oxidized tungsten develops micro-fractures that propagate with each thermal cycle.

Flow Rate Guidelines

Flow rate requirements depend on your collet body type and cup size. Standard collet bodies need 15 to 25 CFH. Gas lens setups need 20 to 40 CFH depending on cup size and stickout.

Too little flow fails to protect the electrode. Too much flow creates turbulence that actually pulls air into the shielding envelope. Both extremes cause problems.

Common Gas Problems

• Leaking hose connections introduce air into the argon stream. Check every connection from tank to torch.
• A partially open tank valve reduces pressure and flow. Open the valve fully before adjusting flow at the machine.
• Moisture in the gas line causes electrode contamination. Use dry, welding-grade argon at 99.95% purity.
• Shop drafts disrupt gas coverage. Even a ceiling fan can blow enough air to compromise shielding on a gas lens setup.

Pre-Flow and Post-Flow

Pre-flow delivers gas to the electrode before arc initiation. It purges the torch of air. If pre-flow is set too short, the electrode arc starts in an air-rich environment.

That first instant of oxidation weakens the tip.

Post-flow keeps gas on the electrode after the arc stops. The tungsten is still hot when the arc extinguishes. Without post-flow, ambient air contacts the hot electrode and oxidizes it.

This is one of the silent killers of electrode life.

Check your machine's pre-flow and post-flow settings. Pre-flow should be at least 1 second. Post-flow should be 5 to 15 seconds depending on amperage and electrode size.

Higher amperage means more heat stored in the electrode, which means longer post-flow is needed.

For gas selection in specialized applications, argon purity and flow rates vary. But for standard TIG, welding-grade argon at the flow rates above covers most work.

Step 7: Evaluate Your Start Method

How you initiate the arc matters. Some start methods are gentler on the electrode than others. If your tungsten breaks during or immediately after arc initiation, the start method deserves scrutiny.

HF Start (High Frequency)

HF start is the cleanest method. The machine sends a high-frequency voltage across the gap between the electrode and workpiece. The arc jumps the gap without physical contact.

No contamination, no mechanical stress.

If your machine has HF start capability, use it. It's the best option for electrode longevity.

Lift Arc

Lift arc requires brief contact between the electrode and workpiece to establish the circuit. You touch the electrode to the metal, then lift it to initiate the arc. That contact deposits a small amount of base metal on the tungsten tip.

Over time, that contamination accumulates and creates fracture points.

Lift arc is common on machines without HF capability. If you're using this method, grind the electrode clean between breaks. Switch to a fresh electrode more frequently.

Scratch Start

Scratch start is the least controlled method. It's similar to stick welding initiation. You scratch the electrode across the workpiece surface.

This causes the most contamination and the most mechanical stress on the electrode.

Scratch start is rarely used in professional TIG welding today. If your setup requires it, expect shorter electrode life and plan accordingly.

Start Amperage Settings

Regardless of start method, the initial amperage spike matters. Many TIG machines allow you to set a separate start current. If that's set too high, the sudden thermal shock cracks the electrode tip.

Start at 50 to 70 percent of your welding amperage for the initial ramp. Let the arc stabilize before ramping up to full welding current. This gradual approach reduces thermal shock significantly.

Step 8: Consider Thermal Shock

Even with everything else correct, rapid temperature changes can snap tungsten. The electrode heats to over 6,000 degrees Fahrenheit at the arc zone. The shaft stays relatively cool.

That temperature gradient creates internal stress in the metal.

When Thermal Shock Happens

Thermal shock is most likely in three situations:

• Arc strikes on a cold electrode at high amperage
• Interrupted welding with rapid on-off cycling
• Moving from a high-amperage section to a low-amperage section without adjusting settings

The first one is the most common. You pull the trigger, the arc starts at full amperage, and the sudden temperature spike at the tip creates a crack that propagates within seconds.

How to Minimize Thermal Shock

Use a start current ramp if your machine supports it. Ramp up from 30 to 50 percent of welding amperage over one to two seconds. This gives the electrode time to adjust to the temperature change.

Avoid rapid on-off welding cycles. Each restart subjects the electrode to another thermal shock. Group your welds so you maintain the arc for longer continuous runs rather than constantly restarting.

When you pause between beads, keep the post-flow gas running. The controlled cooling prevents the electrode from hitting ambient air while still hot. Rapid air cooling after arc extinction is a leading cause of electrode cracking that happens after you think the weld is done.

Mistakes to Avoid When Diagnosing Tungsten Breakage

After walking through the diagnostic steps, some patterns emerge around errors that waste time and money.

• Blaming the electrode before checking the torch components. The tungsten is often the victim, not the cause.
• Reusing contaminated electrodes. Once tungsten picks up foreign metal, grinding the tip clean doesn't remove contamination from the shaft. Start fresh.
• Ignoring post-flow settings. Most breakage happens after the arc stops, not during the weld.
• Assuming the problem is technique when it's actually equipment. Worn collets, cracked cups, and aging gas hoses cause symptoms that mimic poor technique.
• Not tracking which settings and combinations produce stable arcs. Keep a simple log of electrode type, diameter, amperage, and cup size for each successful session. Patterns emerge fast.

Tungsten Selection Chart: Diameter, Amperage, and Tip Geometry

This reference combines diameter, amperage range, tip preparation, and recommended polarity into one quick-lookup table. As of 2026, these values remain consistent across major tungsten manufacturers.

For AC aluminum work, blunt or ball the tip rather than grinding a point. Pure tungsten naturally forms a ball on AC. Ceriated and lanthanated electrodes on AC should be truncated flat, not pointed.

Expert Tips for Making Your Tungsten Last Longer

These practices consistently improve electrode longevity based on manufacturer recommendations and experienced welder feedback.

• Grind tungsten on a dedicated diamond wheel. Bench grinders create heat and inconsistent geometry. Diamond wheels produce clean, consistent grinds without thermal damage.
• Grind longitudinally along the electrode axis. Circumferential grinding marks create arc wandering and hot spots.
• Clean electrodes with acetone before first use. Never touch the ground portion with bare hands after grinding.
• Use the smallest cup that provides adequate coverage. Oversized cups waste gas without improving shielding.
• Replace collets at the first sign of wear. A new collet costs a few dollars and prevents electrode wobble.
• Store tungsten in a dry, sealed container. Humidity degrades electrode surfaces over time.

For background on the fundamental differences between TIG and MIG welding, the electrode management discipline required in TIG is one of the biggest operational differences.

Safety Considerations When Grinding and Handling Tungsten

Tungsten grinding produces fine dust that shouldn't be inhaled. Some electrode types, particularly thoriated tungsten, carry additional hazards. Per OSHA guidelines for welding and cutting operations, proper respiratory protection and ventilation are required in any shop environment where tungsten grinding occurs.

• Use a respiratory mask rated for metal particulate when grinding
• Grind in a ventilated area or use dust collection
• Wet grinding reduces airborne dust significantly
• Wash hands after handling tungsten electrodes, especially thoriated types
• Never eat or drink in the grinding area
• Dispose of used electrodes properly according to local hazardous waste regulations

Thoriated tungsten (red-band) contains thorium dioxide, which is mildly radioactive. While the radiation levels are low, thorium dust is hazardous if inhaled. Many shops have moved away from thoriated tungsten in favor of lanthanated alternatives that perform similarly without the radioactive material.

When to Replace Components Instead of Blaming the Electrode

If you've walked through all eight diagnostic steps and electrodes still break, the problem may be your equipment rather than your setup choices.

A worn torch head can develop misalignment that puts lateral stress on the electrode. Aging machines may have unstable amperage output that causes current spikes. Gas regulators that stick or surge deliver inconsistent flow.

The diagnostic approach is simple. Swap one component at a time. Start with the cheapest and most common failure points: collet, collet body, cup, and gas hose connections.

If the problem persists, move to the torch head and gas regulator.

If you're comparing TIG with alternative processes like flux core or MIG welding, electrode management in TIG demands more attention. That's the trade-off for the precision and weld quality TIG delivers.

TIG Tungsten Breakage Decision Guide

Use this quick reference to diagnose the problem based on where and how the electrode broke.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my tungsten break every time I start an arc?

Start amperage is likely too high for your electrode diameter. Reduce the start current to 50 to 70 percent of your main welding amperage. Also verify your electrode type matches your polarity setting.

A pure tungsten on DCEN will fracture during arc initiation almost every time.

Can I reuse a tungsten electrode that broke in half?

If the remaining piece is long enough and shows no discoloration, you can regrind and reuse it. Check the fracture surface. A clean crystalline break means no contamination.

A dark or pitted fracture surface means the remaining piece is compromised. Grind it fresh and inspect for any discoloration along the shaft before reloading.

Does a gas lens really prevent tungsten breakage?

A gas lens dramatically improves shielding gas coverage, especially at longer stickout distances. Better coverage reduces oxidation, which reduces electrode weakening. A gas lens won't fix a polarity mismatch or amperage overload, but it eliminates gas-related electrode degradation almost completely.

How often should I replace my collet?

Replace your collet at the first sign of the electrode slipping or wobbling inside it. Most collets last through dozens of sessions with proper care. If you notice the electrode shifting during welding or if tightening the collet no longer holds the electrode firmly, swap it out.

A new collet costs a few dollars and prevents electrode waste that costs much more over time.

What is the best tungsten electrode for a beginner?

A 2% lanthanated electrode (blue or gold band) in 3/32 inch diameter covers the widest range of applications for someone learning TIG. It starts arcs easily on DC, performs adequately on AC, and handles a broad amperage range. It's the most forgiving option while you develop your technique.

Why does my tungsten turn gray or black during a weld?

Gray or black discoloration indicates shielding gas contamination. Check your argon flow rate, gas hose connections, and cup condition. Moisture in the gas line or a cracked ceramic cup allows atmospheric air to reach the electrode at arc temperature.

Oxidation produces the discoloration and weakens the tungsten structure. Fix the shielding problem before loading a fresh electrode.

When TIG is Worth the Extra Electrode Management

TIG welding excels on thin gauge material, aluminum, stainless steel, and any joint requiring clean, precise welds. If your work involves sheet metal fabrication, aerospace components, or food-grade stainless, the electrode discipline pays off in weld quality. For high-volume production on thicker steel, MIG welding or flux core may be more practical.

Typical Electrode Costs and Lifespan

Lanthanated and ceriated tungsten runs roughly $1 to $2 per electrode. Properly managed, one electrode lasts through multiple sessions. Poorly managed setups burn through three to five per hour.

Over a month of regular welding, that difference adds up to $50 to $100 in wasted tungsten alone. Investing in correct setup eliminates most of that waste.

Long-Term Torch Maintenance

Clean gas passages quarterly. Replace O-rings annually. Inspect water-cooled torch hoses for cracks every six months.

Document your settings when electrodes survive long sessions. Patterns emerge that tell you exactly what works for your specific setup.

Common Real-World Scenarios

A fabricator welding 1/8-inch stainless with 3/32 lanthanated tungsten at 120 amps, gas lens, #7 cup, and proper post-flow should get multiple hours from one electrode. Switch to a standard collet body with excessive stickout on the same settings and breakage returns immediately. The variable isn't skill, it's setup.

Fixing It for Good

Once you've identified the cause, lock it in. Write down your working combination: electrode type, diameter, amperage, cup size, and flow rate. That note becomes your baseline for every future session.

If breakage returns later, something changed. Compare current settings against your baseline and the culprit usually reveals itself in minutes.

The habit that matters most is the post-flow check. Verify gas keeps running five to fifteen seconds after the arc stops, every time you adjust amperage. Get that one setting right and most unexplained fractures disappear for good.

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